The forest is quiet. The air is moist and musky. It smells of rich earth and wood. Redwood duff crunches under my boots. The occasional songbird calls to a mate. A raven soars through the clearings, her wings making a whooshing sound as they slice the air. I couldn’t see the top of the trees while standing, so I laid down in the center of a ring of giants. I stayed there for most of the day, listening to the silence and communing with the ancient ones.
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Sequoia sempervirens — coast redwood, the ancient ones, living giants, forest giants, and k’asil xale — just a few of the many names given to the tallest trees on the planet, California’s coast redwood.
Revered by humans of many cultures and continents, redwoods were considered elders of the land by native tribes living in the Pacific Northwest forests. For over 5,000 years, the trees provided building material, medicine, warmth, and a deep connection to the natural world.
The evergreen coast redwood’s lifespan is 1,200-2,200 years. Growing to almost 400 feet tall and 30 feet in diameter, the forest giants are some of the oldest living things on earth. Before logging began in the 1850s, there were over 2 million acres of coast redwoods. All were within 50 miles of the Pacific in Northern California and Oregon.
Today, only 5 percent of the original 2 million acres of coast redwood remains along the California Coast and the southwest corner of Oregon. Most are protected in parks and public land trusts. The largest is Redwood National And State Parks (RNSP), a World Heritage Site.
Facts and myths about redwoods are abundant. For example, the Pomo tribes that lived among the coast redwoods believed the living giants were elders of the earth. Connecting with a tree is said to heal the heart and calm the mind. Napping under a redwood will bring deep restorative sleep. They are all connected via roots and send support to an ailing tree or water to a thirsty one. There is an ecosystem in their canopy that supports wildlife and fauna that may never touch the ground. Redwoods make clouds and rain. The tannin they produce discourages insect invasions. Redwoods have a heart and a circulatory system, and many more fascinating facts.
While the ancient ones are the park’s stars, there are more than tall trees to discover. From sea level to 3,200 feet, the park has beaches, intertidal zones, wetlands, rivers, prairies, woodlands, and remote wild forests. Wildlife is abundant in the water, sky, and on land.
1. Get To Know The Locals
Your first stop should be one of the five visitor centers in the park. At these locations, you’ll find information, orientation, ranger-led activities, exhibits, trailheads, picnic areas, restrooms, passport stamps, Junior Ranger Programs, and more, depending on the season.
Redwood Parks Conservancy, a nonprofit partner of the park, operates park stores at each visitor center. Buy books, maps, gifts, souvenirs, and more. All the shop’s proceeds support the park and public lands on California’s north coast.
2. Explore On Foot
Redwood National and State Park has over 200 miles of trails. Walk and hike through old-growth forests, woodlands, fern canyons, grass and wildflower prairies, and sand beaches. Trail elevations range from sea level to 3,000+ feet. Footpaths are available for all ability levels. In addition, there are five ADA-accessible trails. Excellent help choosing the right trail for your abilities and time can be found in the Walks and Hikes Guide.
3. Take A Scenic Drive
Eight magnificent drives within the park are available for cruising through ancient redwood forest, lupin-covered prairies, age-old oak woodlands, and the breathtaking coastline. Some are paved; others aren’t. Not all drives are suitable for RVs, motorhomes, or trailers. The Scenic Drive Guide has vehicle recommendations for each drive and easy-to-follow directions.
4. Walk On The Wildside
The park overflows with wildlife from the forest to the Pacific. In the air, permanent residents and migratory birds of many species and sizes can be seen. Bald eagles, osprey, and peregrine falcons are especially thrilling to watch as they soar and hunt. Over 280 species of birds have been seen in the park’s Bird Guide.
Watch the gray whale migration from cliff tops November-December and March-April. Roosevelt elk live year round in the park. They can be seen grazing in small herds. Calves are born in May and June. Tidepooling is the best way to get up close to sea stars, abalone, and mollusks of many varieties. Learn more with the Wildlife Viewing Guide.
5. Just For Kids
Become a Junior Ranger
Kids can join the Junior Ranger Program at visitor centers. Junior Rangers take part in learning activities and earn badges for their efforts.
Ranger Guided Programs
Go to the visitor centers to learn about the day’s ranger-led programs for children and adults.
Howland Hill Outdoor School
Students in grades K-5 can join in the school’s immersive environmental education.
6. Bike Among Giants
Fifty miles of bike trails ranging from easy to difficult crisscross the park. Tracks from 1.5 to 11 miles long meander among tall trees, along the coast, and into the prairie. All are well maintained. The Bike Trail Guide gives details about the environment, difficulty levels, and directions.
7. Kayak A Wild And Scenic River
Paddle in rivers, the ocean, harbors, and lagoons. In summer, ranger-led, Smith River tours show the river’s importance to the life of the tall trees. Check out the Kayaking Guide.
8. Horseback To The Outback
Pack animals — horses, ponies, mules, burros, goats, and llamas — are welcome on “pack animal” designated trails. You can take a day or overnight ride. Pack Animal Trails and Overnight Camps Guide.
9. A Day With Your Fur Buddy
Leashed pets are allowed in the park but not on any trails or ranger-led programs. However, there are two gravel roads where leashed pets are welcome; Cal Barrel and Walker Roads. Learn more at Pets. Please Follow the Rules of BARK.
10. Relax In A Shady Orchard
The history of park inhabitants and industry is alive in many areas. Boyes Prairie Orchard in Elk Meadow was once the site of The Oaks Hotel, a dairy, and a large apple orchard. All that remains are 15 fruit and nut trees. One of the apple trees is a White Winter Pearmain. It was first recorded in domestic gardens in A.D. 1200. Read more about the orchard in the Historic Orchards Guide.
11. Get To Know A Wildflower
Over 1096 plants are listed in the Redwood National Park plant list. Blooming plants can be found every season of the year, making the park a place to search for wildflowers at any time.
Two of the most prolific and popular blooms are lupines and rhododendron. Lupines bloom in June. Their fragrant blossoms cover the Bald Hills prairie. Rhododendrons bloom in August. You’ll find them everywhere. Rhododendron leaves often stay green throughout the year.
When To Expect The Blooms Guide has photos of many of the showoffs. There is a description of the plant and flower, a habitat explanation, and the bloom period.
12. Become A VIP
Redwood National and State Parks wants to make you a VIP — Volunteer In Parks. VIPs come in all ages and from around the globe. They bring different skills and backgrounds to enhance the park programs, host campgrounds, and protect and preserve all the park’s resources. Some volunteers work for a day; others may stay for a month. The volunteering guide presents opportunities for both indoor and outdoor volunteer positions.
Planning Your Adventure Among Giants
Redwood National and State Parks isn’t just one park; it’s four joined and managed as one. Redwood National Park, Del Norte Coast, Jedediah Smith, and Prairie Creek Redwoods California State Parks have 139,000 acres and contain old-growth rainforests. RNSP is situated in Del Norte and Humboldt Counties, California.
Most folks find a vehicle the easiest way to get to and around this northern California location. It’s 6 hours from San Francisco following Hwy 101 and about the same time from Portland, Oregon.
- Plan two or more days in the area. Take your time and smell the redwoods.
- Download the parks’ official brochure. It’s excellent!
- You can sleep in the park. Tent camping, RV camping, and basic cabins are offered.
- If camping, make your reservation NOW. Camping is limited and goes quickly.
- There are only eight basic cabins to rent. They have beds, electricity, and heat, but no kitchen or bathroom. So again, make reservations early; the ADA-accessible cabins are popular.
- Hotels on the perimeter of the park are in demand. Check out the Lodging and Camping Guide for facilities within and around the park.
- Layers are your best bet for clothing. Temperatures average 40-60 degrees year round. The forest and coast can be wet. Rainfall in non-drought years is 60-80 inches. Raingear is essential, along with sturdy boots or walking shoes.
- The park is a wild place. While it is generally safe and few serious harm incidents occur, you should be aware of the potential dangers. There are wild animals in residence. Bears, mountain lions, and elk may cross your path. Insects and poisonous plants are present. Read the Safety Guide. Make sure all your traveling companions know what poison ivy looks like, what to do when you see a bear, and how to safely remove ticks from humans and pets.
Make your trip to Redwood National and State Parks an expedition into the world of gentle giants. Time spent in the enchanted forests of coast redwoods is filled with fantastic experiences that will immerse you deeply into the natural world.