Valletta. Historic, romantic Valletta.
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Sometimes called an “open-air museum,” Valletta, Malta, is a grand feast for your eyes. Sixteenth-century sandstone buildings stand shoulder to shoulder with 21st-century architectural masterpieces. Sophisticated and full of activity, Valletta is a people watcher’s delight.
History is in every building, street stone, monument, and ruin. At 0.24-square miles, you can easily walk all of Valletta’s streets in a day. But get an early start; you’ll be distracted by shady sidewalk cafes, side street eateries, and kiosks selling traditional Maltese street food.
The food in Valletta is decidedly Maltese, which makes it Mediterranean. Maltese dishes are influenced by the cultures surrounding the small archipelago in the center of the Mediterranean Sea. Menus offer local ingredients as well as seafood and shellfish caught that morning. Pasta is standard; Italy is only 60 miles away. I can’t resist the lasagna, but seafood with linguini calls me like a siren.
Stews are popular, especially fish or rabbit. Stuffat tal-fenek, or rabbit stew, is Malta’s national dish. Many dishes are made with local goat cheese, charcuterie, peppers, olives, tomatoes, capers, broad beans, pumpkins, garlic, onions, lemons, potatoes, and fabulous Maltese bread.
Whether coffee and pastries from a kiosk or a five-course Champagne dinner at a five-star hotel, you will not be disappointed by these Valetta restaurants.
1. The Phoenix Restaurant
Located in the five-star Phoenicia Malta just outside the Valletta City Gate, the Phoenix Restaurant is one of the most refined places to eat in Valletta. The elegance of this historic hotel and resort can’t be overstated; the Phoenicia experience is unlike any hotel anywhere in Malta. The Phoenix is its main dining room where breakfast, lunch, and dinner are served each day.
Try either a champagne dinner, bubbly breakfast, or champagne weekend brunch. These lovely, romantic meals feature Barons de Rothschild Champagne.
A Phoenix Champagne Dinner will be a treasured experience as you dive deeply into bubbles. Each course, five in total, is paired with a Rothschild champagne.
The award-winning chefs prepare classic Maltese and European cuisine. Many ingredients come from the Phoenicia Kitchen Garden. But the real treasure is the staff. Your server will be warm, friendly, and knowledgeable.
If you don’t have time for a complete meal at Phoenicia, you can enjoy a drink or small bite at the pool, in the gardens, or in the Palm Court just off the lobby. The concierge at the hotel will be glad to help you make a Phoenicia venue choice for food and beverage.
Pro Tip: Ask to see the gardens. As you stroll through the flower beds, daydreaming benches, picnicking spots, and trees, you’ll be privileged to see the secret views of Valletta’s walls and ramparts snuggled up to Phonecia’s gardens.
2. Grain Street
Eat indoors or out at Grain Street, located in Rosselli, a newly opened five-star hotel on Valletta’s Merchant Street.
I suggest Grain Street for lunch. They have a two-course Luncheon Express that, as they say, “leaves you wined and dines in 45 mouth-watering minutes.” I enjoyed a pork pot-roast with veggies and a glass of prosecco. The pork was from a local farm, as was the wine. The outdoor seating is lovely in the evening. Inside is quieter, a bit more intimate.
There are three other eateries in the hotel: Grain Michelin Dining Experience, Under Grain, and Over Grain. All are at the top for quality, creativity, and service.
3. The Rooftop Restaurant & Lounge
The name says it all for the Rooftop. This is an intimate and romantic location day or night. Still, the nighttime Valletta skyline might have a bit of an edge. Those twinkling lights work for me.
The Rooftop is located on the top floor of the Embassy Valletta Hotel. Inside and outside dining are available. Complimenting the beautiful outdoor pool are tables, chairs, and lounges. The views are spectacular.
Kevin and I go for the Bar Bites, small plates of yumminess. Our top four are jumbo bao buns, grilled sardines, baked falafel, and Irish beef sliders. Rooftop has a full bar and an excellent wine list. They serve breakfast, lunch, and dinner, and accept reservations for lunch and dinner.
4. King’s Own Band Club Bar And Restaurant
Oh, how I adore this place, the food, and the staff. The King’s Own Band has the finest traditional Maltese food in Valletta. Located on busy Republic Street, the restaurant is set back from the street by two doors. Stepping inside, it’s quiet, and the city buzz fades away. You immediately feel relaxed and welcome. You are ready to eat when you smell the delectable aromas wafting from the kitchen.
I felt I was in Italy while at the King’s Own. The atmosphere, the menu, the food, and the décor are simple, traditional, and beautiful. Don’t be surprised to see one of the employee’s children sitting at a back table doing homework or having dinner.
King’s Own is known for stuffat tal-fenek, a traditional rabbit stew. It is absolutely delicious with a rich gravy made from local red wine, then slowly braised for hours. My companion had the veal. It was made with a lemony sauce. Lots of sides came with our entrees. The roasted veggies were enough for a family, but we managed to do them justice.
Pro Tip: Don’t skip dessert here. Take a look at their dessert case. It will tempt you to eat your pudding first.
5. Ambrosia
Ambrosia gets my award for “Kindness to Tourists.” Even though they were closing for the afternoon, when two hungry and lost Americans walked in, we were served. We had mac and cheese from heaven and a bowl of vegetable soup. The bread was warm and comforting. We dipped it in olive oil from Gozo. Our host added a couple of grinds of black pepper. What a treat.
The owner chatted with us for some time. We talked about the election from the night before, the island of Gozo, and Maltese food. We learned that everything at Ambrosia is house-made and sourced from Malta.
Lunch and dinner are served. The full bar, with indoor and outdoor bistro-grub dining, is outstanding.
6. Caffe Cordina
Opened in 1837, the Cordina is known as one of Europe’s finest cafes. Serving breakfast, lunch, and dinner each day, their specialty is pastry. Cordina loads their windows with pastries, pies, cakes, cookies, and more temptations. You are in the showroom for the bakers’ skills when you walk in.
A kannol ricotta (pastry filled with sweet ricotta) and a caffe latte are pictured are just the thing you need from the “sightseeing slump.” Cordina serves a full menu of traditional and contemporary European dishes.
Pro Tip: Buy a few goodies to take away for your morning coffee.
7. Upper Barrakka Gardens
Eating outdoors in Valletta is one of my great pleasures. Between jaw-dropping views and people watching, the food almost takes backstage.
One of the places I love to stop for a light bite or an ice-cold Cisk is the ancient Upper Barrakka Gardens. Here, you’ll find the Upper Barrakka Kiosk selling drinks, snacks, and traditional Maltese street food like pizzette (Maltese pizza) and pastizzi (crisp pastry filled with cheese or peas).
Pay for your food and drinks at the counter, then choose a table. The table in the above photo overlooking the Grand Harbor is only a few feet from the kiosk. It’s shady and quiet. Your order will be delivered to your table.
Getting There And Getting Around
Most folks come to Malta by air, but many come via cruise ship. If you are arriving by air, take a local bus or taxi to Valletta. There is a transportation desk in the airport as you exit. They will help you find the best transportation to the city and help you pay the fare in advance.
When you arrive via cruise ship, guess what? You are already in Valletta. At the cruise ship terminal, ask for directions to the Barrakka Lift. The lift is the fast way up the 190 feet from the waterfront to the city streets. It’s free to go up and costs €1 to go down. You arrive in the Upper Barrakka Gardens.
Pro Tip: Take a food tour to get a variety of eateries and Maltese food. Give Offbeat Malta Food Trails a try. You’ll visit Valletta eateries, taste traditional cuisine, and learn about Maltese food history. Ask for Malta native Daniela Aquilina to be your guide; she’s a chef, a historian, and a chocolatier at Oil & More, her company.
Why Eat In Valletta?
Valletta is romantic, sophisticated, and beautiful. Have a movable feast. Drift from one café to the next, trying just one small dish. Before long, you’ll begin to get the taste of Malta and the Mediterranean. In the compact 16th-century city, you will experience Malta’s romance, culture, and history through its superb food.
