Jeju Island lies to the south of mainland South Korea. It sits between several seas — the Yellow Sea, the East China Sea, and the Sea of Japan (also known as the East Sea). Getting there is very easy if you’re in South Korea.
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If you’ve read my other article on amazing things to do on Jeju Island, this article will cover more of the practical details of planning a trip there.
How To Get There From Mainland South Korea
You can travel there by plane or ferry. Jeju is a 1-hour flight from both Seoul and Busan. There are several airlines that fly there, including Korean Air. High winds in Jeju often ground or cancel flights. Make sure you have flexibility in your itinerary in case your flight is impacted. When I went, my flight back to Busan was canceled due to the winds. If your flight gets canceled, be persistent in going to your airline’s help desk to get booked onto another flight if you want to leave the same day.
You can also get a ferry to Jeju from certain ports, such as Incheon and Busan. However, it’s a long ride and much more expensive than flying.
Where To Stay
Jeju City
Though Jeju is a fairly small island, it has much to offer. Figuring out where to stay can be overwhelming. If you can stay at least a week, I’d recommend splitting your time between Jeju City in the north and Seogwipo in the south. It takes a little over an hour to drive between the two.
Jeju City is where the airport is located and hotels are about a 10-minute drive away. If you plan to take any day tours, most of them depart from the airport or are pick-up only at Jeju City hotels; another reason to stay in this area. You could also rent a car at the airport which is a great way to see more places.
In Jeju City, I stayed at the Gallery Hotel BnB. It’s a no-frills, budget hotel. I found the room quiet and perfectly located, about a 2-minute walk from the main street in Jeju City. If you prefer more luxurious accommodation, I recommend searching for other hotels nearby.
Seogwipo
Staying in Seogwipo is a great way to see a very different part of the island than Jeju City. It’s easy to walk to most of the places if you don’t have a car and it was one of my favorite cities in all of South Korea. Most buses stop in Seogwipo, offering you another easy way to get around without a car. Seogwipo is next to the coast, so you can enjoy some of the beautiful water views while there.
I enjoyed the Hotel Rest Seogwipo. The budget price left me incredulous at the room. It was huge and came with its own washing machine! This is a great place to stay without a car as it’s a few minutes’ walk to downtown. If you have a car, however, you might prefer to stay at the Seogwipo KAL Hotel.
How To Get Around
There are plenty of buses, however, you’ll be at the mercy of their schedules. It can be difficult to decipher which stop gets you where you want to go and which bus you need. Full-day tours will take you to many of the major sites. Renting a car is the easiest way to see most of the island.
Pro Tip: If you plan to rent a car, make sure to get an international driver’s license in your home country before arrival. Without it, you won’t be permitted to rent a car.
Where To Eat
Jeju City
Visit Neulbom Heukdwaeji in Jeju City for black-pork barbecue. Be sure to go someplace where the pork is not overly greasy. It was great here, however, the staff tries to cook for you and hurry you. Be persistent, insist on cooking it yourself, and take your time.
Dae Hyang in Jeju City has some of the best Korean barbecue meat you’ll find. It’s hard to find red meat as opposed to pork barbecue on Jeju. If that’s what you’re craving, come here, and don’t leave out the Soju!
Seogwipo
The Seogwipo Olle Market is a must. There are so many different options, including a food court just outside the main market. My favorite meal was the seafood pancake I found. It was hearty, delicious, and where I had my first taste of Makgeolli — a delightful South Korean alcohol.
Seogwipo also has a restaurant street near Cheonjiyeon Falls called Chilsimni Food Street, reputed as having some of the best restaurants in the area.
I lucked into what I thought was the best place in Seogwipo, Oneunjeong Gimbap — a gimbap restaurant. It looks like a complete dive, so I was dubious until, after placing my order, there was a line out the door. It was so good I tried to go back another night, only to find a 45-minute wait to get my food.
How Long To Stay
I would say forever, but if you don’t have that luxury, at least a week, ideally 2 or 3 weeks. There’s so much to see and being able to stay in different parts of the island in order to see more is well worth it.