New England has clam chowder. The South has barbecue and similar soul food staples. Up and down the East Coast, you can find some of the tastiest American classics right where they originated.
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But what about a place like North Carolina?
There’s no single image of food that comes to mind. Similar to South Carolina, you might imagine a seafood boil. But further inland, the culinary waters are a bit more muddied. And there are few places as distinct as Asheville in terms of flavor.
One key element defines this city’s culinary identity: Appalachian flare. Nestled in the Blue Ridge Mountains and only a short distance from the tallest mountain east of the Mississippi, Asheville has long been an isolated and self-sufficient outpost.
Over time, traditions from local Cherokee, African Americans, and Anglo-Saxon populations melded together. Local tastes reflect these influences, covering a range of foraged ingredients, fried meats, soul food favorites, and plenty of breweries.
But there are new fusions, too. Things like collard greens in coconut milk, nacino made from foraged black walnuts, and sumac-laced za’atar. The boundaries are being pushed, and locals are loving it.
But is it enough to designate the city as one of the East Coast’s foodiest capitals? Let’s explore what to eat in Asheville and why its restaurants are making waves.
What makes a city ‘foody’?
There are dozens of ways to measure a city’s palate. One is to count the number of Michelin-star restaurants, which can famously be handed out to fine dining establishments or street vendors. (Just so long as they prepare their food painstakingly.)
But a more humble and realistic metric for Asheville would be its number of James Beard winners and nominees.
The first James Beard Awards were handed out in 1990, but in 2018, the organization pivoted to focus on inclusivity. Entry fees were waived and judges were selected based on their experience in specific culinary traditions.
Along with restaurants, judges can also select chefs, food journalists, and even authors to honor with nominations.
Unsurprisingly, California and New York are home to the lion’s share of James Beard Award winners and nominees. Illinois isn’t far behind thanks to Chicago’s culinary projects. But North Carolina, with 11 nominations and winners total, falls surprisingly high on the list. It shares 11th place with South Carolina and Alabama.
What to eat in Asheville: top projects
As mentioned up top, Appalachian culture is one of the driving factors that defines Asheville’s culinary scene.
One local writer, Ronni Lundy, says that Appalachians do a lot of canning, pickling, drying, and curing. These practices have led to new fusion hits like collard green kimchi (available at Rhubarb) and staples like chow-chow relish (available at Benne on Eagle).
In Asheville, you’ll also notice that many restaurants source their ingredients locally. Once again, this harkens back to the city’s once-isolated nature. But this push isn’t only thanks to small-scale farms.
The area around Asheville is fertile and blanketed in forest, allowing for plenty of foraging. You’ll notice dishes with sumac, sorghum, and plenty of herbs—all sourced from straight down the holler. I’d suggest trying the nacino made from the area’s black walnuts (from Eda Rhyne).
Asheville spotlight: the chefs behind the curtain
The list of restaurants worth visiting in Asheville is long. Take a few shortcuts—I’ve collected some of my favorite recommendations from trusted sources.
- Rhubarb by John Fleer / Fleer is a five-time James Beard Award-nominated chef who’s known for his emphasis on handmade food that’s locally sourced.
- Chai Pani by Meherwani Irani / Enter the Thunderdome of Fusion Cuisine at Chai Pani. Irani uses food to tell a story—in this case, by combining Indian street food with Appalachian fare.
- Eda Rhyne Distilling Company / This modern distillery honors its heritage by creating highly distinct spirits. I recommend trying the Appalachian fernet, nocino from local black walnuts, and whiskey from local grains and corn.
- The Market Place by William Dissen. The Market Place is all about seasonal food that’s sourced from within 100 square miles of Asheville. I would sample this entire menu.
- Hominy Farm / This local bakery uses one of the first Turtlerock wood-fired stoves in the area. The name itself is a callback to the corn kernel treatment process that is ground to create masa. Masa is the corn flour used to make tortillas, arepas, and all other dishes that I love.
