When you imagine a great tourist destination, what comes to mind?
Some people dream of escaping from busy cities where they can get in touch with Mother Nature. Others are more focused on cultural explorations of architecture, art, and more. The spare few might instead be focused on language exchanges, volunteer work, and other immersive forms of travel.
But I doubt North Korea comes to mind for the average traveler.
Even adventurous tourists and fans of ‘dark tourism’ might have a hard time imagining a trip to Pyongyang, the nation’s capital.
That being said, North Korea has an active tourism department.
Visitors can enter the country through Pyongyang or even via train from the northern border it shares with China. Sure, tourists have very limited options when it comes to working with one of four state-run travel companies and using their smartphones.
Still, that hasn’t stopped brave-hearted travelers in the US, Europe, and China from wandering past its borders. Some visitors even stayed behind or returned later to work at Pyongyang University or participate in humanitarian efforts.
US citizens have been banned by the US Department of State from visiting since 2017.
But we were never the primary target for North Korean travel companies. One report from BBC estimated that upwards of 100,000 Chinese visitors explored the country back in 2019, along with around 5,000 Westerners.
But the country’s borders were locked when the COVID-19 pandemic started. And they’re only now preparing to re-open to tourists.
Let’s dig a little deeper into one of the world’s most fascinating (is that the right word?) tourist destinations.
North Korea preparing to re-open
North Korea was one of the first countries to shut its borders following the COVID-19 pandemic. From January 2020 until January 2024, the nation restricted most forms of travel in and out of the country.
Even when its borders opened in January 2024, only Russian nationals were allowed to visit. Recently, reports from two Chinese travel agencies (which work alongside North Korea’s state-run tourism groups) hint that tours will be limited.
At the moment, reports from China-based Koryo Tours and KTG Tours state that the only North Korean city that will open to tourists is Samjiyon. Whether other major cities, including Pyongyang, are open for visitors remains to be seen.
Samjiyon is a small city near the border with China that serves as an important recreational destination for tourists. Over the last few years, Samjiyon has been undergoing renovations to expand and improve tours that explore the sacred Mt. Paektu, the Revolutionary Museum, and the Martyrs Cemetery.
Tourism in North Korea: it’s bigger than you think
It looks like Samjiyon will be the only option for visitors who flock to North Korea this December. It reflects efforts to boost tourism, which has been a focus for the country over the last two decades.
Like most Americans, I’ve never associated North Korea with tourism. But it’s efforts to create a profitable tourist sector have succeeded, especially when it comes to the Chinese market.
In 2010, a tourist train was completed between China’s Dandong and North Korea’s Pyongyang, offering a more direct trip than previous routes from Beijing. Luxury hotels were put up, along with—brace yourself—two casinos.
No, they’re not open to locals, as gambling is strictly prohibited. Instead, they’re designed to serve Chinese gamblers who aren’t wooed by a trip to Macau. They can choose between a trip to the Hotel & Casino in Rason or the Yanggakdo International Hotel in Pyongyang.
Casinos aside, there are other familiar amenities dotting the country, including water parks, amusement parks, museums, circus shows, ski resorts, and plenty of great hiking trails.
So, there’s more going on in terms of tourism than you might think.
We need to talk about Dennis
I was shocked to learn that Americans were only officially banned (by the US Department of State) from visiting North Korea in 2017. Does that mean… Americans were visiting the country for fun before then?
I’m sure we can all name one American fan of North Korea: Dennis Rodman. He’s one of the NBA’s most controversial all-stars, former husband to Carmen Elektra, and North Korea’s most unlikely ambassador.
I don’t have the time to dig into what brought Rodman and Kim Jong-un together—it’s a long and sordid topic.
What’s worth pointing out to me is that Uri Tours, a travel company that specializes in taking Westerners to North Korea, facilitated the trip. And Westerners can still travel to North Korea with Uri Tours.
So, yes, Americans were visiting North Korea prior to the ban in 2017; Rodman was far from the only participant in tours from companies like Uri Tours. And while we’re used to hearing about difficult run-ins between American visitors and local authorities, thousands of Americans have visited without incident.