I came home the other day to find a neighbor’s holiday guest lugging a suitcase up to the fourth floor.
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I helped her carry the suitcase, then told her to knock on my door if she needed anything else. An hour later, I answered a tentative knock on the door. It turned out my new (temporary) neighbor couldn’t figure out how to turn on the heating.
Only a few days before in mid-December, Barcelona had turned from a temperate paradise into a meat locker. That’s the thing about Barcelona—most people get hung up on the lack of air conditioning in the summer.
They forget to fear the winter.
To be fair, Barcelona’s winters are mild. Temperatures hover in the 50s before sometimes dropping into the 40s or, on a bad day, the 30s. The catch? Buildings are made of stone and the vast majority don’t have heating.
Unlike most locals, my neighbors actually have central heating—but their guest couldn’t figure out how to turn it on. I dragged my spare space heat out of the closet (yes, I have two space heaters and a closet—I live in luxury) to lend to her.
I could only nod in understanding when she said, “I didn’t know it got this cold.” I didn’t know that when I first got here, either.
Still, as much as I hate how cold my apartment gets in December and January, I’m thankful that my Christmas season comes with a lil’ winter chill. Tis the season, after all—and it’s a magical one in Barcelona.
From the massive light displays hanging across avenues to the classic winter markets, it’s my favorite time in the city, even though the crowds persist.
If you’ll be spending the Christmas season in the city, here’s what you need to know and where you need to go.
Visiting Barcelona: an introduction
Let me give you a quick crash course on Barcelona. It’s the capital of Catalonia, a region where the fight for independence from Spain is still very much alive.
Depending on where you’re heading, you might hear Catalan spoken more than Spanish, or vice versa.
As a city that’s grappling with overtourism, you might feel that you’re getting the cold shoulder. You might be—but Catalans are also known for being a little cold, just like New Yorkers or Muscovites.
That doesn’t mean they aren’t kind or helpful. It just means they aren’t usually down for small talk and smiling at strangers.
Christmas in Catalonia
There are two major Catalan Christmas traditions that you’ll notice in Barcelona, Girona, and similar destinations in the region. The first is the log with the face painted on it. The second is the figurine of a man with his pants pulled down taking a poo.
The former is Caga Tió or Tió de Nadal. It’s a yule log with a face painted onto it. The log wears the traditional Catalan red sock hat (a barretina) and has sticks for legs.
During Christmastime, parents drape a blanket over the log’s lower portion. Starting on December 8, children start to ‘feed’ the log.
When Christmas comes, children beat the log until it poops out their gifts. Remove the blanket and voila… Caga Tió has produced presents for the whole family.
Think that’s weird? Buckle up.
The second tradition is the Caganer or figurine of the pooping man. You’ll notice him snuck into nativity scenes throughout Catalonia, a traditionally Catholic region, and sold as a stand-alone item.
Some say that the Caganer tradition, which began in the 18th century, is a form of ensuring fertility and good luck. I’ve heard others say that the Caganer is a way of inserting humor into one of the most solemn and austere religious holidays of the year.
Either way, picking up a Caganer is my ultimate souvenir suggestion in Barcelona. You’ll see them sold as famous people, as well—from US presidents to Star Wars characters to famous actresses.
Best Christmas markets & events in Barcelona
Now that you know what you’re getting into with a Catalan Christmas, here’s how to enjoy the season with the best markets and events. I’ve gone to all of these spots and had a great time; I’m confident you will, too.
Also—no need to buy tickets. Barcelona goes hard on the free events.
St. Lucy Fair (Fira de Santa Llúcia)
Ah, the Christmas Market I couldn’t miss if I tried. This gorgeous and classy market is located in front of the Cathedral of Barcelona—a Gothic landmark that’s probably on your itinerary already.
You can shop around for all types of Christmas fare, from real trees to Caganers to ornaments. I’d recommend this be your first and last stop for Christmas cheer in Barcelona. This fair is the Christmas market—and it’s been around since 1786!
(Pro tip: Don’t miss out on the mural ‘The Kiss’—it’s a touristy spot but I’ll go out of my way to stop by. It’s one of my favorite pieces of street art in the world and beautifully encapsulates the warmth, creativity, and joy of Barcelona’s residents.)
Port Vell Fair (Fira de Nadal al Port Vell)
Unlike the market above, I usually avoid this Christmas fair at all costs thanks to my dislike of large crowds. That being said, I’m the odd one out in my friend group for this; everyone else passes through this area multiple times in November and December.
Located in Port Vell, this fair includes views of the yacht-laden harbor and includes a massive Christmas market, Ferris wheel, food and drink vendors, and even an ice rink. Some nights, there’s also live entertainment.
(Pro tip: Even if you’re not heading to Barcelona in winter, check out the Port Vell area. This spot hosts dozens of festivities throughout the year. And even if there isn’t a festival going on, it’s still a great place to people watch, sunset-watch, and otherwise enjoy the city’s ambiance.)
Christmas fair at Sagrada Familia (Fira de Nadal de la Sagrada Familia)
Just like the Cathedral of Barcelona, I’m sure a trip to Sagrada Familia is on your radar. From late November until the end of December, you can find a Christmas market outside the grounds of the church.
It’s a popular event that draws in people from around the city thanks to its traditional fare. Like the St. Lucy Fair, you can find shops selling all types of favorites—from ornaments to artisanal products to Caga Tió logs to desserts like torron.
I recommend booking a tour of the church around sunset (when the stained glass windows are full of light) and then heading outside to soak up the atmosphere.
